English
Soba

Soba-sho MatsuiCold Soba on bamboo colander or
Hot Soba with grated radish,
amazed by the 2 choices

My first destination is “Soba-sho Matsui”, which started business from 17th September 2009 and has a sister shop in Inuyama-shi, Gifu-ken. “My father quitted his office job and got fascinated by Soba so he started this Soba restaurant.” the second generation Mr Takashi Matsui said. His father took the name of the restaurant “Soba-sho” in Takayama-shi where he received training and added his own surname for the name of his restaurant. The front of the restaurant is very modern. The ceiling of the entrance is higher for enhancing his morale. Only table seats are available and spaces between seats are wide and comfy.

So, what should I have today? You may need “Sobamae (Before Soba)” means you need to get some sake and snacks before having Soba. The other kind of Soba restaurant is Soba only. “Matsui” is the latter. Moreover, all you can see on the menu is “Zaru-Soba (Cold Soba on bamboo colander)” and “Oroshi (Hot Soba with grated radish). There is assorted tempura but not “Ten-zaru (Cold Soba with tempura)”. I am amazed by how the restaurant concerned about its details. It makes me feel so pleased.

I chose “Oroshi” (1100JPY, with tax) without hesitation. Wasabi is originally a replacement for grated hot radish. According to “Soba zensho (All About Soba)” from Edo era, the most suitable spice for Soba is extracted juice from grating radish. If you do not have hot radish, you can replace it with wasabi. “Matsui” provides the most traditional Soba, of course I must taste one!

Soba is made from buckwheat bought from “Soba-sho” where the first generation had his training. The buckwheat is grounded with its black coat. The flavor of buckwheat is set off and the texture is richer too. You can feel its chewy texture and feel it is like dancing inside your mouth. The hot radish upgrades the taste of Soba too. If you use wasabi instead of hot radish, you feel pungent with a bit cool. But radish is sharp and hot. Every time you can get reset and get impressed for every mouthful you taste.

“Soba in Inuyama branch also uses water drained from Gujo Hachiman.” Mr Matsui said. This made me know that water is really important in making Soba.

Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman3 Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman4 Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman5 Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman6
Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman7 Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman8 Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman9
Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman10
Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman11
Going with noodle writer, Yamada! Noodles at Gujo Hachiman12

I chose “Oroshi” (1100JPY, with tax) without hesitation. Wasabi is originally a replacement for grated hot radish. According to “Soba zensho (All About Soba)” from Edo era, the most suitable spice for Soba is extracted juice from grating radish. If you do not have hot radish, you can replace it with wasabi. “Matsui” provides the most traditional Soba, of course I must taste one!

Soba is made from buckwheat bought from “Soba-sho” where the first generation had his training. The buckwheat is grounded with its black coat. The flavor of buckwheat is set off and the texture is richer too. You can feel its chewy texture and feel it is like dancing inside your mouth. The hot radish upgrades the taste of Soba too. If you use wasabi instead of hot radish, you feel pungent with a bit cool. But radish is sharp and hot. Every time you can get reset and get impressed for every mouthful you taste.

“Soba in Inuyama branch also uses water drained from Gujo Hachiman.” Mr Matsui said. This made me know that water is really important in making Soba.

Soba

Soba-no-hirajinA old restaurant with evolution

Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin1
Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin2
Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin3

The next destination is also a Soba restaurant “Soba-no-hirajin”. it is opened in the early Showa era (1926 – 1989), with history of around 90 years. The third generation Mr Koji Ohata is now in charge of the restaurant. “The first generation is a businessman. He started this restaurant as a common restaurant. The generation before me narrowed down to Soba only.” Mr Ohata told me when he is boiling Soba.

I am curious about why only Soba. “Gujo Hachiman is a sightseeing spot for a long time. For the locals, they are living in normal lives. But for the visitors, they would like to taste things outside normal. That is food only can be made in Gujo! Speaking of Gujo, you will think of water. That is why he chose Soba” said Mr Ohata with a smile.

Looking outside the window from the seat at the back, you can find the best location to see the Yoshidagawa River. I can see how good the sense is from an autograph of Isamu Noguchi displayed in the restaurant.

I order “Seiro (Cold Soba on bamboo tray) with local mountain yam” (1430JPY, with tax) after knowing the most representative Soba in Gujo Hachiman. Before that, I need to have “Sobamae” here in “Soba-no-hirajin”. Let me have local sake “Bojoh” (550JPY, with tax), made in Yamato-cho, town next to Gujo Hachiman and “Hida Gyusara (Beef plate made by Hida beef)” (880JPY, with tax). Hida beef is one of the most famous branded cattle that the flavor is heavy. If you know how to taste it, you cannot help ordering more Japanese sake!

They use 80% of buckwheat and 20% of wheat flour to make Soba. Buckwheat flour they used is order-made type with their own combination. “The most important part of Soba is texture. Good flavor will not come out if you just put it into your mouth. You need to chew it to let the flavor out. That is why we focus on the texture of Soba.” Said Mr Ohata.

The base of the dipping sauce is made of Katsuo (Skipjack) soup stock. Shaving of Muroaji (Mackerel scad) and Saba (Mackerel), dried mushroom and kelp to make the taste richer. Pour some mountain yam into this dipping sauce and dip your Soba. Because of the texture of mountain yam, the flavor of Soba gets richer and deeper. Of course, the flavor of mountain yam is good too. I highly recommend you pour some of the remaining yam onto your Gyudon (Beef rice bowl).

The generation before made thicker Soba comparing with Soba nowadays. Keeping the balance of flavor and texture, this generation makes narrower Soba. Mountain yam is only available during winter in the past, but now they decided to start providing throughout the year. When Mr Ohata thought hard to find what dish to go with Soba that can represent Gujo. He finally made the decision to make that beef plate taking from Hida beef rice bowl.

Treasure the taste of the previous generation but not persist. No hesitation to changes makes “Soaba-no-hirajin” so strong. Having only Soba in their menu and using Hida beef plate answers to all needs from customers.

Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin4 Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin5 Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin6 Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin7
Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin8 Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin9 Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin10
Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin11
Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin12
Going with noodle writer, Yamada!|Soba-no-hirajin13

They use 80% of buckwheat and 20% of wheat flour to make Soba. Buckwheat flour they used is order-made type with their own combination. “The most important part of Soba is texture. Good flavor will not come out if you just put it into your mouth. You need to chew it to let the flavor out. That is why we focus on the texture of Soba.” Said Mr Ohata.

The base of the dipping sauce is made of Katsuo (Skipjack) soup stock. Shaving of Muroaji (Mackerel scad) and Saba (Mackerel), dried mushroom and kelp to make the taste richer. Pour some mountain yam into this dipping sauce and dip your Soba. Because of the texture of mountain yam, the flavor of Soba gets richer and deeper. Of course, the flavor of mountain yam is good too. I highly recommend you pour some of the remaining yam onto your Gyudon (Beef rice bowl).

The generation before made thicker Soba comparing with Soba nowadays. Keeping the balance of flavor and texture, this generation makes narrower Soba. Mountain yam is only available during winter in the past, but now they decided to start providing throughout the year. When Mr Ohata thought hard to find what dish to go with Soba that can represent Gujo. He finally made the decision to make that beef plate taking from Hida beef rice bowl.

Treasure the taste of the previous generation but not persist. No hesitation to changes makes “Soaba-no-hirajin” so strong. Having only Soba in their menu and using Hida beef plate answers to all needs from customers.

Yuichiro Yamada (KIJI Noodle Writer)

Born in 1978 as the eldest son at a noodle maker in Fukuoka-ken. He started his career as a writer in 2003, writing in magazines, web magazines and books. He is having a serial about noodles at Mainichi Shimbun (Mainichi Daily News). His web magazine has a record of getting 13000 clicks in a single day. He has 2 books about Udon and noodles in Fukuoka released. He also released an app “KIJI NOODLE SEARCH” in 2007. To discover new noodles, he travels around the world in recent years. He is currently living in Munakata-shi, Fukuoka-ken. He opened his own noodle making company “Yamada Seimen (Yamada Noodle Factory)” in 2019.

Photographs by Yuichiro Yamada