Going with noodle writer,
Yamada!――
Noodles at Gujo Hachiman #3

It is exactly what I expected for a Chinese Soba. A bowl of soup in amber color with medium size noodles, together with barbeque pork, green onion, seaweed and Kamaboko (Fish plate) comes in front of me. It is so nostalgic that reminds me of the Showa era (1926 – 1989). If I have a hard time today, I will definitely cry like a baby.

When I taste a mouthful of soup, I am so surprised! It is totally different from all soup that I have had before. You barely feel oily but a clear flavor. You can feel the sweetness of Katsuo. Just like “Kii-Soba”! “Kii-Soba (Yellow noodles)” is a kind of noodle using Chinese noodle and soup that you use for Udon or Soba, you can find in Kinki area. Since I was raised in Fukuoka, I knew this noodle in my late twenties. Soup for Udon and Soba matches Udon and Soba. However, when it comes with Chinese Soba, it will become ramen! After I knew this noodle, sometimes I really want to eat it so much. I did not expect I can eat here in Gujo!

“A little bit of soup stock comes from meat, so it is not exactly Kii-Soba. But the taste of Katsuo is quite outstanding so it tastes like Kii-Soba.” Mr Maeda said. “Chinese Soba has been the most popular for a long time. Some regular customers order it every time. I cannot change the taste so easily.” The main ingredient of the soup is soy sauce. The second generation of Matsubaya made their own soy sauce with a local soy sauce maker “Daikokuya”. Noodle they use is made by local noodle maker. After I eat all the noodle, Mr Maeda said it is a taste supported by this area. This Chinese Soba is the taste of Gujo. I want to try tempura too. Let me have it next time!

To conclude, Yakisoba here is very special! Not because they use special ingredients but because they keep the taste from the first generation. The only thing different is that they are using narrow noodles made by local maker. Lye water makes the noodle becomes yellow in color and makes it curl in shape. This shape makes the noodle mix well with the soup.Sauce is not mixed in a difficult way. They use local vegetable and meat too. It is the reason why this Yakisoba is called “Soul food”. The more I hear the more questions come out.

When Mr Katagiri starts cooking, you can see his eyes light up! First, he starts to fry noodle. He fries it thoroughly on the Teppan and starts frying vegetable and meat. He fries so gently and hardly see him stirring them. After adding sauce, the whole restaurant is filled with good smell!

Yakisoba with good smell arrives so fast that let me try it immediately! When I have the first mouth, it brings up both corners of my mouth! First, the noodle smells so good. It goes very well with the sauce. Some parts of it are crispy. The surface of the noodle is crispy. The curly shape of noodle also makes the taste richer. Only pork and vegetable can still make this Yakisoba so perfect! I used to put many ingredients when I make Yakisoba myself. I realized that I put too many after tasting this Yakisoba. The main ingredient of a Yakisoba is noodle! You need to feel noodle, instead of others. The balance of vegetable and noodle here is perfect! You can taste noodle till the last noodle. My friend tries Yakisoba with egg (495JPY, with tax) and he says the egg goes well with the Yakisoba making it tastes mild.

Even if they are not using any special ingredients, I am surprised with the taste. It cannot be done in a short time; you need time to practice again and again in order to make this delicious low-priced soul food! Because of the old age of Mr and Mrs Katagiri, they may close their restaurant without any notification. Please be patience and hope they can get well soon. This warm feeling is the power for them to carry on.