Discovering fermented food in Gujo!
Miyamoto’s tour
Preserved food
Nishin-zushi

The day we visit Soba-kobo Gensuke-san is 23th December, actually it is before New Year. So, we are able to visit and see how they prepare for Nishin-zushi.

Soba-kobo Gensuke-san is located at Roadside Station Seiryu-no-sato Shirotori which is around 5 minutes’ drive from Shirotori West Interchange. You can find Information center, rest place, restaurant and souvenir shop, all attractiveness of Gujo.
Soba-kobo Gensuke-san uses buckwheat grown in Shirotori. You can try soba which is freshly grounded and freshly made and also try to make soba if you make reservation in advance.

Winter limited menu Nishin-zushi is our main target this time. When we enter the shop, energetic ladies smile and welcome us. “You want to see how we prepare? Let get started!” They move so quickly that make me feel very comfortable.

“Two things you need to prepare beforehand. Soaking radish and carrot in salt water and soaking Nishin in koji. Putting radish and carrot soaking for 2 days makes it looks better. Red and white bring good fortune. ”

“Extra water comes out after soaking in salt water. Drain it well or Nishin-zushi will become sourer.”

“When you are soaking the radish and carrot, you can start soaking Nishin too. As Nishin is hard and dry, you need to put it into water with koji. When it softened, mix it with 60℃ hard rice with koji. Put cut Nishin inside, mix well and put into the fridge for one night. The smell of fish will be gone.”

“This is my way of making Nishin-zushi. Many people do not Nishin soaking. They put cut radish, carrot and Nishin into rice and koji only. But my family is doing in my way. When we tried several times and found the smell of fish can be erased by doing this, my family continues to make it this way.” I am pleased that they are improving the tradition. Koji they used is hand-made by local ladies. You can see they are making with all their hearts.

“Next, put the Nishin into the fridge for one night and mix well with soaked radish and carrot.”

“After mixing, wait for 4 days and it will be done! We used to soak for 20 days in the past, but now we soaked Nishin beforehand, so you need less time. Of course, you can adjust the time according to what flavor you like. It will become sweet if you soak in shorter time and sourer if longer time. I like to soak around 4 days, but some like sourer.”

Nishin-zushi is slopped when it is served. Rice together with koji, radish, carrot and Nishin can be eaten. As normal sushi is made from fish and rice with vinegar, it is fresh to me.

But, why is Nishin? Gujo is surrounded by mountains so you cannot catch Nishin from the sea. We asked one of the ladies about this.
“It is far from the sea. It is more difficult to transport far away because of the deep snow in winter. So, people in Gujo used to be self-sufficient. People could not get fresh fish in the past. They could only have dried “Migaki-Nishin (Dried herring)”. Nishin was popular and the price was reasonable in old times so people ate them as a main protein source throughout the year. Nishin-zushi was a feast during New year. However, nowadays, you can buy everything easily. Fewer people make this. The taste will change quickly so no one keeps on making it.”
Knowing the landform the history of this region affected the birth of Nishin-zushi makes me feel excited.

You can try Nishin-zushi here in soba-kobo Gensuke-san in winter. They provide eat-in and take-out. If you think you can try it whenever you go, actually it is not. We come twice, but all sold out. It is very popular among the locals too.
However, this makes me feel more excited! Hope I can try it next winter!